
California,:
It had been at least 24 hours since we had
seen other humans, and the trail seemed to
be ours alone — gleaming granite slabs,
scrabbly switchbacks, glorious glimpses of
the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, and
jagged Sierra spires under cloudless skies.
But the meditative crunch-crunch-crunch
of our boots soon gave way to men`s voices.
A trio of bearded 20-somethings approached.
"Whoa, baby!"
gasped the group`s gnarly looking leader,
pointing to our son, snuggled up in a baby
carrier on my chest.
"Lucky dude! He
gets a free ride!" joked another.
"Can you carry me,
too?" wheezed the laggard.
My husband, Stephen,
and I stopped to chat with them. It was our
fourth Yosemite trip of the year, and we had
become accustomed to questions, comments and
astonished stares from nearly everyone we
met. Few people have seen a toddler in the
back country — let alone a woman carrying
a loaded backpack, plus her child strapped
to the front.
But, judging from the
number of people who ask us how to do it,
many people are curious. Here`s a primer on
"Backpacking with Baby," or BWB
as I call it.
With or without a baby,
backpacking isn`t necessarily difficult. But
it requires more preparation and gear than
camping, which usually means pitching a tent
in a car-friendly campsite, cooking s`mores
in a fire pit, and doing day hikes. Compared
to the rigors of backpacking, campers enjoy
relative luxuries such as outhouses, potable
water and picnic tables.
By contrast, backpackers
strap everything onto packs, then hike away
from the trailhead to set up camp in the wilderness.
They filter water from streams. They eat trail
mix, turkey jerky or easy-to-prepare food
— dehydrated soup, instant oatmeal and
other meals cooked on lightweight stoves.
They sit on logs, write in diaries, play cards,
read paperbacks or simply savor the silence,
stars and scenery.
My husband introduced
me to backpacking in eight years ago with
a trip to California`s Lost Coast, the rugged,
remote stretch of mountains and beaches about
250 miles northwest of San Francisco. We woke
at dawn and had a remote beach to ourselves
— no other people in sight, only sea
lion pups and shorebirds. We vowed to go backpacking
at least once a month (except in the winter).
We took a hiatus after
the birth of our son, Levi, in 2005. But when
the Sierra snow started melting in early 2006,
Levi was 10 months old, and we reached for
our packs.
Our first BWB trip was
a snowbound overnight excursion near a glacier
in the eastern Sierra, where Levi learned
to crawl on the soft floor of our tent. Levi
— perfect child in every way, except
for abysmal sleeping habits — slept
through the night for the first time.
As any desperate, bleary-eyed
new parent would have, we decided to resume
our backpacking schedule — if only to
sleep soundly once a month!
In the following year,
we honed BWB to a science. In the garage is
a checklist of items not to leave behind (though
we often forget to look at it). We have tent
set-up and teardown routines, and favorite
foods for dinner, lunch and breakfast.
Levi, now 2, jumps for
joy when he sees us stuffing our clothes and
sleeping bags into our packs. He shouts phrases
like "Levi, mommy, daddy — hiking
to snow on Mount Lassen!"
He loves eating gorp
(a homemade trail mix loaded with M&Ms),
taking naps in his backpack, playing hide
and seek behind redwoods, and sleeping mushed
up next to his parents in a two-person tent.
We know BWB is not for
everyone — it`d be tougher with two
or more kids, or in parts of the world not
blessed with California`s reliably sunny summer.
But adventuresome parents can start with the
following 10 tips:
1. Downgrade expectations:
You can`t travel fast or far while carrying
a heavy pack and a toddler. Six miles a day
with elevation gain is a "beat-out."
Three miles a day is manageable if you`re
in shape.
The goal is to experience
the wilderness with your family — not
train for an Everest ascent. Consider gentle
trails; instead of hiking to the top of Yosemite`s
Half Dome, try the lower, flatter Hetch Hetchy
Reservoir. (You`ll end up avoiding the crowds,
too.)
2. Be prepared: Besides
maps, flashlights and other emergency gear,
take extra warm baby clothes. Take Baby Tylenol
or other medicine in case of scrapes, stings
and bruises. Have a water pump and travel
near streams. (Breast-feeding mothers take
note: You`ll drink more water than you`ve
ever thought possible.) Take extra food. Tell
rangers your planned trail, number of people
in party, entrance and exit dates.
3. Bring sherpas: We`ve
gone as a nuclear family but are happy to
offload food and gear to accompanying friends
and relatives — especially those with
strong backs.
4. Gear up: I carry my
fits-like-a-glove North Face pack, and I strap
Levi to my chest with the Ergo baby carrier.
(It fits on the front or back and is far more
comfortable, lightweight and packable than
anything else I`ve tried, particularly external-frame
baby carriers.) Trekking poles lend stability
on uneven terrain.
5. Take cloth diapers:
Brands such as Wonderoos and FuzziBunz are
absorbent, wicking and fast-drying —
no different from your fleece jacket. If the
diaper is merely wet, hang it on your backpack
or tent to dry quickly in the sun, which kills
odors.
Seal soiled diapers in
plastic bags and carry them out.
Take care not to contaminate
water sources. National Park Service rules
prohibit the disposal of human waste within
100 feet of a water source or camp site, or
within sight of a trail. The Park Service
has also adopted principles from the Leave
No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics - http://www.lnt.org
- which recommend that human waste be buried
6 to 8 inches deep and that washing (whether
it`s baby or dishes or anything else) be done
with water carried 200 feet away from streams
or lakes, using small amounts of biodegradable
soap.
Some trails require hikers
to haul out all human waste. A portable container
called a Wagbag is one way to do it; depending
on where you go with baby, you might be hauling
it for two.
6. Get dirty: Campsites
are full of sap, mud and bugs — even
truly vile stuff like bear scat and maggots.
Everyone gets filthy. Wipe down the baby with
a damp bandana and look forward to a long
bath upon return.
7. Mind the crumbs: Bears
and other critters will search out food, even
a crumb, noodle, raisin or other baby reject.
Take care to reduce spills, and pack everything
(even toothpaste) in bear-proof containers.
8. Pack small treasures:
A favorite snack, book or toy goes a long
way to short-circuiting a meltdown. We bring
"Goodnight Moon," a harmonica and
Ginger, the well-traveled stuffed dog, to
maintain some semblance of routine.
9. Start young: My husband
started backpacking as a toddler with his
parents. (Lacking our high-tech cloth diapers,
they rented mules to haul disposables in and
out of Wyoming`s Wind Rivers.) Wilderness
trips are great family bonding experiences.
10. Enjoy the difficulties:
I love challenging myself physically on backpacking
trips. The sense of accomplishment and power
is exhilarating. Backpacking with a baby is
even more of a rush. I feel like an Amazon
woman when I`m carrying a 30-pound backpack
and my 28-pound toddler — a superhero
who can safely deliver my child into or out
of any situation, no matter the altitude or
distance.
Backpacking has made
me a better mother and person — and
I`d love to see more parents on the trail!